Improvement in bustles and panniers



Patented Feb. 26, 1878.

INVENTOR.

WITNESSES.

N- PETERS, FHOTO-LITHOGRAPHER, WASHINGTON. D C.

UNITED STATES PATENT STEPHEN DIXON, on LONDON, ENGLAND.

IMPROVEMENT IN BUSTLES AND; PANNll-ZRS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 200,647, dated February 26, 1878; application filed September 14, 1877. y Y

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, STEPHEN DIXON, of No. 45 St. Pauls Churchyard, London, England, have invented new and useful Improvements in a Combined Skirt and Bustle, which said improvements are fully set forth in the following specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawing.

This invention relates, chiefly, to a long or short skirt or petticoat combined with a bustle or pannier, forming a single article of female attire. When the skirt is shortened in accordance with the-prevailing fashion I designate the combined garment a skirtette. The bustle or pannier, of a similar construction, may be used independently of the skirt, with special advantages over those now in use.

The skirt is made, by preference, to open in front, in order that it may be conveniently placed upon or removed from the person. When so constructed the skirt is secured in front by a rowof buttons, or by other convenient and suitable means. The skirt may be closed in front, in the ordinary manner.

The bustle or back part of the skirt is provided with a firm lining, extending about the length and as far across the back as may be requisite to give the proper form. to the bustle or pannier. Between this lining and the outer fabric, at suitable intervals acrossthe back, are secured strips or ribs of cork. These strips or ribs are used as a substitute for r the steel ribs heretofore employed in bustles and panniers.

The strips are first cut from sheets of cork, andpreferably upon curved lines, to adapt them more perfectly to the dress of the wearer. The extent of curvature desirable depends somewhat upon the shape and size of the bustle to be made. The strips are, by preference, covered and stitched before they are inserted. They should be covered with firm fabric, drawn tightly over the top and bottom surfaces, and when thus held two or more rows of stitching should be inserted, passing through the fabrics and the cork. The stitching should be lengthwise of the cork strips, and when very narrow strips or ribs are employed one row'of stitchin g might answer. The object of stitching the fabrics to the cork is to increase the strength and elasticity of the cork, and when thus pre-- pared it cannot be broken by any ordinary usage. These prepared strips or ribs are inserted in cells or cases formed by stitching the lining to the outer fabric of the skirt or bustle, in such a manner that they may be readily removed when it is desired to wash the skirt. The cells or cases should not, however, be much larger than the strips. These strips may be attached to the outer fabric, dispensing with the lining.

The strips may be used without the above preparation by placing them in. the desired positions between the lining and the outer fabric, and then stitching the fabrics and the cork together, the fabrics being tightly drawn across the top and bottom surfaces of the cork. Two or more rows of stitching lengthwise the cork strip will generally be necessary to give the cork the required strength, and two or more strips may be stitched together.

The strips of cork, after being inserted in either way, are bent and retained while in use erably elastic, though others might answer the purpose. These bands are secured at each end of the strips in any convenient manner, and united byfriction-slides orothersuitablemeans, for easy adjustment and release. They might answer if they were elastic and simply fixed to the ends in such a manner as to give the desired curve to the strips; or lacing might be employed for this purpose.

The chief advantages of my form of construction are, that the shape of any part of the bustle may be modified independently, and the bustle may be readily flattened, when desired.

The use of cork strips or ribs instead of steel ribs will be found most advantageous. These strips will not break, and the wearer may sit upon the bustle without injuring the cork or any danger or inconvenience. By combining the skirt and bustle, the latter is kept in its proper position without any attention fiom the wearer.

companying drawing, Figure 1 being a side elevation of a skirtette; Fig. 2, a front eleva tion of the interior of the bustle, and Fig. 3 a View of a prepared strip of cork.

The outer portion A is made similar to an in the required form by means of bands, pref The said invention is illustrated in the ac Ordinary short skirt.- The oneshown is secured in front by buttons at. The back breadth B is lined with cloth, 0, properly secured at the top and sides b to the outer portion A. The strips or ribs of cork, D, used in the construction of the skirtette shown are not covered before insertion. The rows of stitches 0 extend through the fabrics and the cork. The sides b or ends of the ribs D'are'united by elastic bands cl, which pass through frictionslides e, secured at one end of each cork strip.

The cork strip D, Fig. 3, is covered and stitched, ready for insertion in cells or cases. This figure shows clearly the curvature of the 7 strips employed.

scribed.

STEPHEN DIXON. Witnesses:

F. OCoNNoR, R. G. BROWN. 

